Bardouche recalls learning to surf from dad at Waikiki’s Kuhio Beach, falls and all

Joseph Bardouche

I always loved surfing at Waikiki, and I still do. But the reason why I stay at Kuhio Beach in Waikiki is because it is where I surfed for the first time. I was 5 at the time where I saw surfers at Kuhio catching waves. I was impressed with the sport and begged my dad to teach me. Immediately he said yes and bought me a board. We headed to the surf and I was already cold and scared. The water was clear and I could barely move. My dad got me on the board and paddled out. I was hit in the face many times by the waves. I could barely have my eyes open to know where we were going. I found a nice spot; however, the waves were four to six feet! (Thanks a lot, Dad.) I mounted the board and waited – and waited…and waited. “Get ready!” Dad said. I looked back and found a wave about four feet. My dad pushed me on the wave and told me to paddle. I didn’€™t and fell over into the ocean. I tried again and again and failed. It looked so easy at first, but I couldn’€™t seem to get it! I figured I would paddle harder next time. A wave approached. I was scared because it was five feet tall! I paddled and closed my eyes. I didn’t fall, didn’t taste any water. But instead I hovered. I opened my eyes and was amazed. I was gliding on the water and I went on incredible speed. The breeze in my face, the spray of the sea, and the wind in my hair. That’s when I figured – I was surfing.